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KiLlA_1580

Thermostat not opening

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Hi guys i recently put a new alloy rad in my sr s13 and at first the car wasn't warming up only reaching 62°c so I replaced the thermostat and the old one was stuffed. Now the car warms up nice reaches 80°c on long drives and sits on about 75°c while crusing but my bottom radiator hose does not get hot at all and just feels like its building pressure and gets hard like its gonna blow but it doesnt. Has anyone had this problem before and what did you do to fix it. Im getting the temp readings from a powerfc hand controller. Thanks

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have you install the thermostat correctly? i.e. the bleed nipple facing upwards.. highest post.. also installed it the right way in?

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Yep had the front up high and had it running for like an hr making sure all air was gone had no more bubbles coming out when i finished

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Whenever i do a coolant flush or radiator swap i leave the radiator cap off, turn the heater on full blast and crack the bleeder nipple open on the top radiator hose housing whilst running the engine for about 15min and it 100% bleeds all air out.

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I wouldn't jack the car up at the front to bleed air out, have the car on level ground and use a bleed / header funnel connected to the radiator via the filler,then bleed as normal, leave running until operating temperature is reached then give some revs to move any air bubbles. Make sure there is plenty of coolant in header funnel, then let it cool down and suck in coolant and replace radiator cap. This is how I do all my cars, always perfect every time.

I've got a "lisle spill free funnel" kit, one of the best things I've bought for car maintenance, doesn't cost alot and will serve you for ever.

Edited by S15 sxytime

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Everything is done up correctly and working except the thermostat i got no idea what it could be

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Silly question, but does your fan kick in? My car wouldn't actually get hot enough to open the thermostat when it was just idling with the fan on. If you have a thermo fan try disconnecting it and letting the engine get a little warmer, the thermostat should then kick in.

I was getting worried and ended up changing the thermostat too before I tried that.

 

Also you can test the thermostat with a pot of water on your stove if you're still in doubt.

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Anyone mind explaining where the bleeder nipple is located?

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The bleeder bolt is located on the top radiator hose housing that's joined to the block

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Still can't get the bottom rad hose to get hot the only way is to push the car hard and even then it will only get warm and not hot. Am i missing something or doing something wrong?

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Remove the thermostat completely, seal the housing with RTV gasket sealant, test and assess the hose situation. If the issue is definitely the thermostat, there will be no problem. Should the issue be elsewhere, you'll have eliminated the thermostat as being the source of the problem.

 

Even without a thermostat, the car will get to temp if you get hard on the boost once it has warmed up to a reasonable point. If you cbf with that, just tape some cardboard in front of the radiator/AC condensor until your temperature gauge reaches 70-800C, then remove the cardboard.

 

Assuming you did everything correctly, it could even be that your thermostat sucks. How about boiling a pot of water on your stove oldschool-style, and see what it does once the thermometer reaches the appropriate temperature. Your description suggests that your cooling system is quite effective, if it originally was ~60 degrees with your old thermostat, which was probably a low-opening-temp high-flow unit. I'd be comparing your old thermostat to the new one in a pot of boiling water, see how far it opens and how big the opening is.

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Snip the centre out of the thermostat, will create the restriction and flow you want without spending any money

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this might sound like a stupid question, but the radiator or hose doesn't have a block off plastic cap or anything still in place? which you may have forgot to remove prior to installation? something to protect the holes.

or a rag shoved into the radiator pipe? rip the bottom and top hoses off to check. look in the holes for rag or blockages.

 

your waterpump could be utterly f**ked.

or the housing could be corroded causing cavitation etc.

rip it off and replace it to be sure. 150 bux or so through taarks.

 

something is stopping flow.

if the thermostat is new and installed correctly, there isn't really much else that can go wrong besides the water pump and or blockages.

only thing i can thing off that would increase pressure in the system - picture a garden hose when you shut off the nozzle. hose gets hard, no flow etc.

 

one thing to also consider.............

if the engine has had various brands of coolants installed over the years..... these will react with each other, clog up, go lumpy, and cause sludge in the system.

they could be causing problems also.

 

if you dont want to waste coolant while trouble shooting, just use water for a very short period of time.

Edited by n0nac-S15

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