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Supporting mods to make the tubo less laggier

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This isn't a turbo thread, its rather what you might not know, mods that decrease performance.

 

All this is from personal experience.

 

Front mount intercooler kit.

Think of a FMIC kit as a big air tank, bigger the core the more air needs to fill up before making positive boost pressure in the manifold.

The same deal with piping, most kits come with 3inch piping on the cold and hot side, the hot pipe should be the same size has the compressor housing outlet and the cold side as the throttle body size.

 

I bought a FMIC kit 600x300x100, then went to a 600x300x70 and there was more down low torque, then Sonny did the piping, smaller cold and hot side, the car never felt so responsive since its SMI days.

 

 

electronic boost solenoids and hoses

I get some animated reactions from my comments, I had own profec S and B, EVC 6, jaycar iebc, blitz dual solenoid.

profec solenoids pulse too much air out making it laggy or spike.

jaycar has its problems, since it can make torque more quick than any other solenoid its limiting factor is the turbo wastegate, I could only make .9 bar with the t28, anything more and it will free boost.

EVC 6 has a lot of functions that didnt work with an aftermarket ecu, its a good solenoid and works really well.

The dual solenoid is the best, it makes torque so quick and wont spike.

If you want something around the $100 that outperforms the evc then a gfb atomic bleed valve is what you want, its not as good as the blitz dual solenoid but its better than anything else on the market. I still own one longer than any ebc I had.

"silicone" hoses used to regulate boost expand with head causing less volume of air to the pushed, rubber hoses should be used, you will feel the difference.

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Good info, a lot of people dont realise just buying a front mount to fill the gap in the front bar has its drawbacks

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how much smaller on the hot&cold side?? same size as stock piping???

also did you cut holes or did you use a original cooling holes for fmic?

 

currently in the process of building up my ichigo.

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V mounts and predators kits I dont find practical, having it front mount keeps it far away from all the engine heat, I know two people that went from V back to front mount, the advantage is very short piping.

 

Piping goes through the battery tray, the cold pipe is the same diameter as the throttle body and the hot pipe is the same diameter as the compressor outlet, goes from the turbo to the OEM side hole.

 

There will always be pressure drop, I fail to see how these 2k cores can overcome something that has nothing to do with its build material or design (design of the core, not the core tanks or piping)

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do you have pics of your set up?

coz i was wanting to run the same cooler piping to keep it all legal and all......

so to get the response need to cut into the engine bay?

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awesome thread some very good info here can you explain what u mean when u said

 

 

 

I still own one longer than any ebc I had.

 

 

^^^^ not sure what you mean by that.

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awesome thread some very good info here can you explain what u mean when u said

 

 

 

I still own one longer than any ebc I had.

 

 

^^^^ not sure what you mean by that.

 

 

think he's talking about the GFB boost tee

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Funnily enough i have owned the GFB bleed valve and the Turbotech.

 

They do exactly the same thing.

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Anyone got some feedback from those gktech no holes intercoolers?

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great post, so whats the best solution to FMIC lag?

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Funnily enough i have owned the GFB bleed valve and the Turbotech.

 

They do exactly the same thing.

 

 

Never used Turbotech but heard good things about them, had a old an turbosmart bleed valve that didn't hold boost but it may just be faulty bought 2nd hand.

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great post, so whats the best solution to FMIC lag?

 

You could also (if runnning thermo fans) move the radiator in more to make room for the FMIC with shorter piping.

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Great thread,very good info.As much as having a large core FMIC might be laggy,the main fact i think that creates lag is the piping that you mentioned,not just the size of piping,but the route it takes makes a huge difference (talking from personal experience). As far as boost contollers go,using a eboost2 and a dual stage boost controller in both my cars.Both work fantastic

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Anyone got some feedback from those gktech no holes intercoolers?

I'm keen for some comments too. I've read about a few guys trimming down the piping and bends to allow the kit to fit without cutting the front bar, reo or undertray, but I didn't consider the shorter piping might improve response/minimise lag until now. I'm assuming GK performed R&D on the size of the hot and cold pipe and the impact it makes to the overall product. :)

Edited by OzJustin

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I'm assuming GK performed R&D on the size of the hot and cold pipe and the impact it makes to the overall product.
Dont assume makes an ASS out of U and ME pretty sure he designed it then sent it over to China to be made. Thats about it for R&D

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I think u may be right ^^^ as for the other info on fmic the battery tray cutting will

need engineers in Vic if your caught hence why ppl go inbay coolers like predator.

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This isn't a turbo thread, its rather what you might not know, mods that decrease performance.

 

All this is from personal experience.

 

Front mount intercooler kit.

Think of a FMIC kit as a big air tank, bigger the core the more air needs to fill up before making positive boost pressure in the manifold.

The same deal with piping, most kits come with 3inch piping on the cold and hot side, the hot pipe should be the same size has the compressor housing outlet and the cold side as the throttle body size.

 

I bought a FMIC kit 600x300x100, then went to a 600x300x70 and there was more down low torque, then Sonny did the piping, smaller cold and hot side, the car never felt so responsive since its SMI days.

 

 

electronic boost solenoids and hoses

I get some animated reactions from my comments, I had own profec S and B, EVC 6, jaycar iebc, blitz dual solenoid.

profec solenoids pulse too much air out making it laggy or spike.

jaycar has its problems, since it can make torque more quick than any other solenoid its limiting factor is the turbo wastegate, I could only make .9 bar with the t28, anything more and it will free boost.

EVC 6 has a lot of functions that didnt work with an aftermarket ecu, its a good solenoid and works really well.

The dual solenoid is the best, it makes torque so quick and wont spike.

If you want something around the $100 that outperforms the evc then a gfb atomic bleed valve is what you want, its not as good as the blitz dual solenoid but its better than anything else on the market. I still own one longer than any ebc I had.

"silicone" hoses used to regulate boost expand with head causing less volume of air to the pushed, rubber hoses should be used, you will feel the difference.

I did the same thing, agree totally, that and the JDM turbo is more responsive and builds boost quicker than the ADM turbo.. full stop.

Gonna get some rubber hoses for my EBC

Cheers!

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By running the Fmic in the rad support (in place of aircon condensor) you shorten the piping drasticly, reducing the capacity that the compressed air has to fill before it creates boost. Rather than running the fmic in the reo with piping through the battery tray with more silicone joiners. Which may add to the chance of the system leaking.

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Dos anybody moved A/C condenser and radiator back enough to fit intercooler under rad support on s13 ?

I plan to do it but worry about bending A/C lines.

You experience and opinion is very appreciated.

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