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ActionDan

Budget CA S13 Track Car - Upgrades time...

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Shortened splitter last night so it clears sway bar, no longer attaches to engine cross member. I could have cut a hole in the splitter to allow the swaybar to drop through but cutting it shorter was easier/neater and allows me to use some nice captive nuts on the castor arms as new mounts and get rid of some brackets I had attached there.

 

Also going to raise ride height a little as per discussion around roll centres and having LCA's parallel.

 

Winton is on May 10

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is may 10th a sprint day? i need to get my car out again do you have any details around the event might come out

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It is. What details do you want as I'm involved with the club.

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They aren't up yet, but the Logic day details will be identical most likely.

 

Entry: http://www.awdcc.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/150329-Entry-Form_Formfields.pdf

 

Supp Reggs: http://www.awdcc.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ALBURY-WODONGA-supp-regs-for-lap-dash29_3_-2015.pdf

 

I'm also running my own little mini championship on the side based on outright fastest lap times for shits and giggles.

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Some work.

 

Re plumbed all the catch can stuff. Both rockers now feed into the catch can which is now atmo vent again so any positive pressure in the head can get out and fresh air can be drawn in.

 

The morosso crank case evac vale is now connected directly to the dipstick and is using an oil air separator. Stepping that down was fun.... (clamps are lose in the pic).

 

Car is spitting out a bit of oil (I think) with revs, and it's not the crank case evac kit as I checked the separator and it was clean. Turbo pipes were clear so assuming either turbo on turbine side or sad old rings =\

 

IMG_20150425_150450.jpgIMG_20150425_155003.jpg

 

Cleaned up under gearbox, checked breather etc, oil had to have come out dipstick as that's the only place that is wet that could spill that, more cable ties.

 

Pulled fuel pump out and checked float, "seems" ok and not jammed but noticed that fuel tank metal lid was rotated one notch over from where it should be which affects float position, fixed that and removed an old fuel filter in the tank...

 

Inspected tyres and as you can see they got beat on pretty bad on the outside edge. I don't get how having less body roll ends up with more outside edge wear.

 

IMG_20150425_160443.jpg

 

I will need more camber front and rear to fix this, but up front I don't have any more clearance to the shock. What's the consensus on spacers?

 

I want to raise the car a little to help fix roll centres and that will give me more gap to the shock but I need to add more camber anyway (I will need LCA adjusters for this as the camber tops are maxed out or could slot the shock mount holes?)

Edited by ActionDan

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Adding camber or changing ride height won't affect your tyre clearance to the shock. The bottom of the shock is fixed solid, so that distance is fixed.

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I know that. Adding camber was to fix scrub, ride height was to fix rollcentre.

 

Spacers were to fix distance, but after more reading it seems I won't need them anyway as I had misunderstood how the LCA bush adjustment will work, so if it clears now it will stay cleared.

 

My only remaining question is if that pic looks like camber wear.

 

I am looking at these.

http://www.whiteline...t_number=KCA412

http://www.whiteline...t_number=W62544

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Add more caster instead. 2.5-3 degrees should be plenty with street tyres. I used to run 2.5 with semis and lower spring rates and never had issues like that.

 

Something else is going on if you're getting that much wear.

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How is adding more caster going to help?

 

I thought that as the car is too low, as it loads up the outside wheel the lca is dragging the hub inwards and losing dynamic camber?

 

Remember thee are not semis, just UTGQ 140 federal RS-R

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Any reason I would pay twice as much for those and not just get the Whiteline LCA camber bolts?

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To fix inherit issues with the geometry? So you can run less static camber to help with braking, but gain more camber to help in the corners?

 

Poor man pays twice. Do it properly the first time.

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Understood, what's the goal caster wise? and by your thinking, should I leave the camber as is or look to actually run less but with different caster?

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I've read a shitload of stuff and when there are so many opinions about what to do, knowing what is accurate and what is fluff is not easy.

 

Thank you for the link.

 

My question was actually about how much caster, in degrees. I'll google that too, you bastard :D

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And what about the rear? just get more camber? or get rear traction rods - which I thought was more to do with fixing bump steer?

Edited by ActionDan

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I wrote that before I saw your last comment. Leave camber about 2.5, Run as much caster as you can without hitting anything. 7.5-8 degrees I think? Stock is around 5 from memory.

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If your camber arms are maxed out at 1.3 degrees something is bent. 1.5-1.75 would be ideal but I dont' think it would make much difference with your setup. You get heaps of camber gain in the rear with compression anyway. Traction rods help with bump steer, minimizing that will help keep the car balanced over bumps, cornering.

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One side is, and yes the hub will be bent, I know this from my R33 that had the same issue. I think I can get a little more out of it, I'll try. Though I will actually end up losing some when I raise the ride up a little to try and fix the roll centre.

 

I'll get some caster arms then, worth getting traction rods also?

 

Also, why has adding sway bars suddenly meant the car is now torching the outside edge of the tyre and not the inside edge,

 

I assumed less roll would mean less leaning over on the outside tyre edge.

 

OK, plan is.

 

- Raise ride height front and rear to get LCAs flat when sitting still. As I understand it, this will cost me camber front and rear. (correct?) So I'll do this first and see what camber I end up with and decide if bushes are needed front and rear.

- Get caster arms, aim for 7.5-8, pending clearance.

- Win.

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Decided to do a comp test after seeing how much oil came out the exhaust yesterday, I'm hoping it was left over from when the catch was full at the last track day.

 

Stupid tiny battery i not up to task though so I couldn't get it all done last night. First cylinder came in at 130, but after a decent charge of of the battery came back at 150. The next two cam in at 155 and 150, but I've had 2 goes at the last one and not gotten more than 130, so I'll leave the battery to charge for a few hours when I get home tonight and have one more go at it and cross my fingers.

 

172 is new IIRC.

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Decided to do a comp test after seeing how much oil came out the exhaust yesterday, I'm hoping it was left over from when the catch was full at the last track day.

 

Stupid tiny battery i not up to task though so I couldn't get it all done last night. First cylinder came in at 130, but after a decent charge of of the battery came back at 150. The next two cam in at 155 and 150, but I've had 2 goes at the last one and not gotten more than 130, so I'll leave the battery to charge for a few hours when I get home tonight and have one more go at it and cross my fingers.

 

172 is new IIRC.

 

Do you have a booster you can hook up to the battery and then try?

If you are getting 150's all round thats a good result for a 25 yr old donk.

 

A question about the location of your catch can. Is it mounted higher or lower than the outlet hose?

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No booster unfortunately, it's on my list of things to buy.

 

I have one I can borrow if tonights test fails. I'll turn the charger on as soon as I get home (around 5) then do the test 3-4hrs later so it's had plenty of time to soak up enough juice for a few good cranks. My concern is that is was cylinder 4 that had the blown head gasket so it's likely the one that gets hottest/harshest treatment.

 

Which outlet hose?

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Didn't you just change the head gasket? I forgot if it was a metal one or a OEM one..

 

The outlet hose from the exhaust side breather. I suspect you have 2 catch cans? I was reading it is always better to mount the catch can higher than any outlet hose so gravity is in play if there is more oil vapour expected and the catch won't fill up as quick.

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Yes the headgasket is fresh, I don't think the gasket is bad, my point was that cyl 4 was the one with gasket damage and cyl 4 is now potentially giving me low comp readings.

 

Yes the can is higher than the feeds.

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When you're doing the compression test leave all the plugs out. Will crank much easiler with no compression and not flatten the battery.

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That will be the problem, I put the other 3 back in before doing the test on cyl 4 to save time as it was getting late, all other tests had the remaining plugs missing.

 

Slapping myself on the forehead as we speak.

 

Fingers crossed it comes back good, don't feel like rebuilding a bottom end.

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That will be the problem, I put the other 3 back in before doing the test on cyl 4 to save time as it was getting late, all other tests had the remaining plugs missing.

 

Slapping myself on the forehead as we speak.

 

Fingers crossed it comes back good, don't feel like rebuilding a bottom end.

 

Fingers crossed matey! Good luck :)

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Sorry Dan... I haven't been keeping up to date with this so missed all the conversation about suspension geometry before, otherwise I would have commented then.

In the sil I'm running 10/8 coilovers, dampers at hard up front and mid on the rear, standard sway bars, 3.5 deg front and 2 deg rear camber, 8-9 deg front caster. I've also got 225/50R16 Toyo R1R tyres. Still no additional aero besides factory.

There's probably a bit of tweaking required, but as it is the car feels pretty planted at Winton. 120+ around the sweeper, and over 180+ on the straight. Very minimal slip too when the tyres are still fresh. Last day there had me doing a 1:39.

 

I'm surprised you're finding it as difficult as you are.

Edited by ZeroFallen

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Thanks for the info.

 

What rwkw? That's 2.x seconds faster than me and I'm on wider rubber.

 

A few people said turn the dampers UP not down, especially with the stiffer bars. I was also encouraged to ditch the bars by a few people and caster mentioned by all.

 

My goal is 39.x

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